Thursday 24 July 2014

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas...

I get excited about Christmas - I love sharing food with friends and family, I love parties and I love Christmas movies... But even for me, July is way too early to be thinking about it. In this partwork though, Fanny just wants to ensure that we are well and truly ready for The Day. Her aim is to free us all from the 'No.1 Slave Labour Session of the year for home-makers' by learning the professional way to plan, prepare and present the perfect Christmas. I can't help but think that the best way to free us all from the pressures of feeling like we are involved in unwelcome imprisoning in the kitchen would be NOT to start a panic planning session months in advance, but clearly Fanny doesn't agree.


Fanny is well known for her ideas for Christmas, not least because her weird and wonderful TV series of Christmas specials are shown on TV (at least in the UK) without fail each year. However, I'm not entirely convinced that Fanny actually likes the festive season as much as we all imagine. The booklet accompanying the TV series is of course essential reading, especially if you fancy trying the infamous mincemeat omelette, but the tone of her descriptions elsewhere do leave you feeling it's all an unwelcome chore. Her first Christmas book was lovingly called 'Coping with Christmas' which doesn't really ooze positivity as a title. Fanny details her way of coping as planning of course, and outlines her master plan which starts really in January and continues at pace throughout the year!


Fanny condenses her plans in this partwork, but maintains her slightly disparaging tone about the whole thing, providing a selection of menus for almost every occasion, with matching wines from Johnnie too. Most of the recipes feature in future parts of the Cradock Cookery Programme leading up to Christmas, so I am sure I'll be making them then! For now though it's plan, plan, plan! Hang on though, Fanny says that she's giving us these menus so that we can dispense with at least one bit of planning, so maybe I can just sit back and relax for a few months...


No such luck. Fanny wants me to save my precious pennies for The Day so gives lots of crafty ideas for decorating my home. They mainly seem to revolve around making faux feather boas from tissue paper to trim the tablecloth and hang round door frames, and endless ideas involving swans. No idea why,just because Fanny likes them I guess.nFanny says it's important to have 'ideas not money' to make your home a festive sensation, no matter who pops round. I'll need to stock up on tissue paper and spend the next six months cutting out little squares, threading them together and scrunching them up to make the boas. That'll certainly keep me busy and clearly impress my Christmas guests.


There are a couple of recipes included, but only a few. They mostly involve cheats ideas for The Day - things like using the ingredients from a classic Christmas pudding to make a frozen cream dessert, or using a Swiss Roll formed into a ring as a Garland Cake - invented by Fanny herself for those that hate plum pudding. Fanny urges us to make our a Brandy Butter now and store it wrapped in cellophane in our ordinary domestic refrigeration. I'll pass. Fanny also shows us how to make little Petits Fours and chocolate truffles - using Canache as she calls it, we know it as Ganache - that we can give as presents. Fanny reminds us that is absolutely essential to 'keep the friendship of tradespeople' at this time of year. So, the table and decorations are covered, plans are in place, recipes will be coming and I'm feeling calm. But hang on, Fanny gives no clues whatsoever how to dress oneself impressively to wait nonchalantly at the door for guests to arrive. Panic! What the heck will I wear?

Saturday 19 July 2014

Handling Adams Homecoming at Foodies Festival

I think Adam Handling's a wee bit nervous about his homecoming demo at Foodies this August in Edinburgh. 'I've not done a Scottish crowd before, so we'll see how it goes!' but he promises to relax into it with some jokes and banter with the audience. Fanny Cradock cracked a few jokes too when she appeared at the city's Usher Hall. Initially, she thought her career was over 'for certain' when her usual lines were met with a stunned silence. Perhaps the crowd didn't understand her, or worse still they didn't appreciate her? All turned out well of course for Fanny when one well-to-do Morningside Lady (probably) started chuckling and the laughs soon rippled across the rather reserved Edinburgh audience. I don't think Adam has anything to worry about either - there is a real buzz about his appearance, and I'm sure his Scottish humour will be well received in Inverleith Park. We are a lot less reserved these days, I think!


Maybe Adam is nervous though because he has lost the lucky charm which served him so well in his early career? 'I used to have an LP Rose Champagne top from Gleneagles, I kept it in my pocket for two years' Perhaps it's time for Adam to find something new to bring good fortune? Not that he really needs it, he seems to be doing just fine. If you saw him on Masterchef The Professionals you'll remember some of those amazing creations, luck had nothing to do with it. Fanny used to armour herself with her sophisticated and showy stage outfits, but Adam can't really see himself donning a ballgown, instead opting for a more cheeky charm. 'Maybe I could get some lucky pants instead?' 


Adventurous Adam is keen to showcase two types of dishes at Foodies - one that is true to the restaurant, and one that is easy to do back at home. Probably one savoury, one sweet. Adam wants the audience to get involved too, so you never know there might even be a chance to help him create or taste his famous Chocolate Orange dessert. Well, actually I'm volunteering already to taste! Fanny invited selected guests to come on stage and taste her souffles and sensational creations, so long as they only said if it was 'delicious or disgusting'. No one ever dared to say anything other than 'delicious', but I suspect in Adams case it would be the response anyway. Particularly if its that Chocolate Orange. Did I mention I'd be happy to be a taster? 'I want people to know how it tastes, and then to reminisce about it at home.' I'm sharpening my elbows to get to the front, I love reminiscing!


Foodies will very much be a team effort for Adam, with a couple of highly capable, willing, smiling assistants on board. 'They are amazing, I love them all!' Watch out for them, they'll have 'Team Adam' emblazoned on their chefs whites and if you sneak backstage before the demo you'll see something Fanny would not have had any part of... 'We do a wee happy dance before we go out!' Adam also hopes to get to explore some of Edinburgh during his time at Foodies. 'I'll be there all weekend, so I can chat to people, get to munch a few things and see the city.' And dancing, clearly.



'My ethos is Smile or Get Out of the Kitchen, which just happens to be the title of my new cookbook!' The book will be available for pre-orders at Foodies which will make the crowds happy too I expect. Adam is almost as excited to be heading 'home' to Scotland for his demo as his many fans are. 'Twitter has been going crazy about it, it's great!' So whether it's down to ballgowns, champagne tops or pants, if you are lucky enough to see Adam at Foodies for his homecoming, push yourself to the front, give him a massive 'welcome home' cheer, taste his dishes (you'll have to fight me for the Chocolate Orange though), do your own happy dance... Just make sure you smile while you do it! 


I'm delighted to be part of the Official Foodies Festival Blogging Team! 

Ticket Information

2014 Foodies Festivals tickets are now available from www.foodiesfestival.com or by calling 0844 995 1111.

Tickets:
1-day adult ticket for Friday £10.00
1-day adult ticket Saturday or Sunday £12.00 (£10.00 concession)
3-day adult ticket £18.00 (£15.00 concession)
1-day VIP ticket £38.00 (Friday VIP ticket £35)
Opening times: 10am until 6pm.

VIP tickets include a glass of Bubbly on arrival, access to the VIP tent throughout the day, a goody bag and priority entry to theatre and masterclass sessions as well as a private bar with refreshments throughout the day and great views of the entertainment stage.

All children aged 12 and under go free to all Foodies Festivals when accompanied by an adult.

Friday 11 July 2014

Fannys' Fantastical Fried Fruity Fritters

Fanny decides to finish off this partwork with a deep-fried treat, well I think it is anyway. The only things I normally like that are fried are falafel, Arancini and mushrooms (I'm feeling slightly guilty here as I realise this list could go on...) and not really sweet stuff. Fanny gives these Pineapple Fritters several different names to try and entice me in - it's fair enough, Fritters only really appeal if they are mushy pea. Maybe I really do like more deep fried things that I let on. So, these could also be known as Beignets d'Ananas which do sound very sophisticated. Or 'Old Ladies' Fritters' which really don't. 


Fanny might raise her sharply pencilled eyebrows even higher than expected, but I'm making a few changes to her recipe. One through choice, and one through necessity. Both probably misguided. Fannys' recipe calls for 'preserved Pineapple slices 1/4" thick.' All I can find is dried pineapple which is wafer thin, and really doesn't look like it would cope well in the deep fryer. I do have a wee tin of slices in the cupboard though, which are kind of preserved... In a tin... I wonder if that's actually what she meant? The other change is to the confectioners' custard. Fanny calls for her fail-safe recipe, previously given, but I've been trying different milks lately, and I think making the custard with Coconut milk might just work here. To get it nice and thick, I whip up a batch with powdered custard. The shame of it.


Fanny soaks her pineapple slices in kirsch for a while, but as mine are fresh from the tin, I pop the kirsch in the batter instead. Fanny makes her batter by beating egg yolks until they are pale and fluffy, adding milk, melted butter and brandy. I like her style, but I've already decided to switch in the kirsch. After adding flour and a little salt, the stiffly whipped egg whites are folded in. Voila, fritter batter!


Fanny says to pour the custard over the pineapple slices, and to let it set. This proves quite difficult and I end up just kind of moulding it on top, quite thickly. It might all slide off anyway as there really is nothing on the pineapple for it to cling on to. I give them a quick dusting with rice flour just incase. This is not in Fannys instructions. It's all guess work, this is one of Fannys' recipes that is sparse. I feel she's testing me and I'm determined to pass. I've been at this a year now, surely I can fritter like Fanny?


I only have a tiny wee deep fryer, perfect for those falafel I am so fond of (and obviously rarely used...). It's big enough to take one fritter at a time though, so the custard topped pineapple rings are dunked in the batter and set to sizzle. The batter puffs up really nicely, looking almost like a light tempura batter. Nothing like stodgy. They taste good, and the coconut milk gives a faint boost of tropicality. They are a bit like doughnuts, but counting as one of your five a day. And yes, they do look just like Fannys. Fanny is sure that these fritters would be served up by great chefs, but can't resist a dig at English restauranteurs. According to Fanny, they'd serve them with, horror of horrors, at least gastronomically, caster sugar. Fanny has this to say 'Grrrrr!!' and also notes of course for those that don't know they should be served with lightly sifted icing sugar. Old ladies who like fritters like them to served properly. 

Wednesday 9 July 2014

It's Foodies! It's a Festival! It's Cracker Jak!

Life could've taken a very different turn for Chef Jacqueline O'Donnell, from Glasgow's The Sisters Restaurants, if her Grannie hadn't intervened. Skipping home (I imagine) to tell her that she had chosen her High School subjects, Jak wasn't prepared for her reaction. Surely Italian, French, Spanish, Woodwork and Metalwork were mighty fine choices? 'She just about had a fit at me for not thinking about learning how to keep a husband!' Fanny would've been impressed! 'I love Fanny's name of course, but not to mention her attitude to cooking'. Fanny would've been really impressed, she always loved a little flattery - or as she knew it, especially if people were talking about her, just plain telling the truth.


Jak recognises that cooking has changed a lot from the 'domestic style' that Fanny was known for, and was taught in schools across the country. 'She did bring a lot of fun to the table though, but now it's more fun, fast and sexy!' This is Jak's mantra for her demonstration at the Foodies Festival in Edinburgh this year. 'Sometimes a lot of chefs miss that part of the brief - make them laugh I say!' Jaks' entertainment values are set to high - expect to see her bursting onto the stage with lots of stories and a laugh. Fanny did the same at her demos in the 1950's, although her impersonations of the French don't seem quite so funny today... 


'I want to inspire folk to go home, pop their peenies on and cook!' And those peenies should of course be pink - it's Jaks' motto. 'Pink is not a colour, it's an attitude' she tells me, and I know we are going to see that fun loving attitude in full force at Foodies. Jak believes that we desperately need more demos and programmes on TV about good, honest home cooking. Is she suggesting we bring back Fanny? Much as I'd love that, I think she's got other ideas 'I believe motherhood, family, health, taste, nutrition and Scotland need to be brought to the table'. Mmm, I wonder who might be just bloomin' perfect for that job?


'I can't actually believe that the whole of Scotland doesn't know how to make Puff Candy by now, so that'll be my finale at Foodies!' However, don't just expect to see Jak at her own demo, she has a habit of popping up all over the place 'I turn out to be the Foodies assistant comedian, which is a bit cheeky, but is fun'.  I'm not sure what Fanny would reckon to the Chef turning assistant, and comedienne to boot, but Jak doesn't care about that, it all makes for a good show. Expect to hear lots of stories from Jaks' time on the Great British Menu earlier this year 'I'm not under contract anymore, so I can chat about it now. It was brilliant fun, and some tears too. Not to mention the gossip...' Did someone mention gossip? I'm there!


I fully expect the audience at the demo to be jammed with fun loving, gossip hungry foodies, desperate to hear Jaks' stories and to learn how to make Puff Candy. For Jak though, there will be a few faces missing. 'I would've loved my grandparents to be there, but they'd all died before I was 19. It would be great to let them see what I actually did with my forced subject choices. I think they would be impressed!' Do you know what? I think we all will be! So, let's make it fun for Jak too - raid your wardrobe for all your best pink clothes and head down to the demo for some fast, sexy fun!

I'm delighted to be part of the Official Foodies Festival Blogging Team! 

Ticket Information

2014 Foodies Festivals tickets are now available from www.foodiesfestival.com or by calling 0844 995 1111.

Tickets:
1-day adult ticket for Friday £10.00
1-day adult ticket Saturday or Sunday £12.00 (£10.00 concession)
3-day adult ticket £18.00 (£15.00 concession)
1-day VIP ticket £38.00 (Friday VIP ticket £35)
Opening times: 10am until 6pm.

VIP tickets include a glass of Bubbly on arrival, access to the VIP tent throughout the day, a goody bag and priority entry to theatre and masterclass sessions as well as a private bar with refreshments throughout the day and great views of the entertainment stage.

All children aged 12 and under go free to all Foodies Festivals when accompanied by an adult.

Monday 7 July 2014

Mollycoddled

Sometimes I read things in my beloved Fanny Cradock Cookery Programme and just wonder if it's been a mistake. Surely there is no way that even Fanny could be suggesting that. Have one of the downtrodden assistants sneaked something in for revenge? What would Johnny say? What on earth must the weekly readers have thought? Is it all just a little weird in retrospect, or was it totally bonkers in the 1970's too? Or is it that certain ingredients that we take entirely for granted now simply weren't around 'back in the day'? Fanny often tries to send me off to the chemist to buy olive oil 'for culinary use' which I am sure would make my pharmacist chuckle. It's hard to get my head round there not being supermarket shelf after shelf of different types and brands to choose from. However, for this simple supper of Baked Eggs with Cream and Spinach - or Oeufs en Cocotte aux Epinards - Fanny wants to send me to the chemist for something quite different. Baby food. A jar of baby food. She wants me to use sieved baby food spinach.


I'm sure it's perfectly edible and 'pure', but it's not something I want to be eating. I'm not sure why. Thankfully Fanny also gives instructions, if I am lucky enough to have some real fresh spinach not intended for toddlers, on how to cook spinach, properly of course, to a purée. I do. Orgnanic of course, get me. Can you hear Fanny's voice booming these instructions out, or is that just me? Thick stems should be cut off, and any brown blemished edges TORN (not cut) off before washing under running water. Shake the spinach but DO NOT pat it OR dry it, instead fling it into a large pan over a low flame and stir it occasionally until it collapses. The leaf juices should run freely. 


Fanny warns that the very moment the juices 'run' the heat should be increased and the spinach simmered for exactly seven minutes. Once cooked, the spinach must be sieved and the liquor retained, returning it to the pan to bubble down to a 'mere tablespoon of syrupy substance'. It's then folded back into the spinach. I've never taken so much trouble over spinach before, wilting it is as far as I've ever gone, but anything to avoid a pouch of Ella's Kitchen. 


To prepare the cocotte, Fanny gives very basic instructions. Fanny uses proper white cocotte moulds, but allows these to be substituted for individual soufflé moulds if necessary. Choosing neither, I proudly butter my cheery seventies dishes rescued from the charity shop instead. In go my my eggs, covered in the spinach mixture, sprinkled with pepper and cheese and finally a dribble of cream. Fanny uses 'top of the milk' but alas this is one treat from the 70's that is no longer readily available. I am really craving it now though. At this stage, I fully expect to bake the eggs, but Fanny does hers on the stove top, in a covered pan with simmering water. In contrast to the cocotte, Fanny gives VERY detailed instructions for the simmering water. It should reach a stage where it 'heaves slightly or shivers, but does not bubble hard'. Fanny says to immediately immerse the chosen container, cover and allow to cook until the egg is only just set. If I allow it cook for longer, it will be my own fault if my yolks are like solid pieces of yellow rock. It's a judgement call. As I tuck in for lunch I discover they are cooked properly, thankfully, and taste so simple and intense of flavour. Perhaps I am just relieved it's not baby food, and that I didn't have any explaining to do down at the chemist.

Wednesday 2 July 2014

The Mark of Modernity - Mark Greenaway at the Foodies Festival!

As we take a seat in the corner of the Restaurant Mark Greenaway dining room, both proudly clutching our iPads, Mark is keen to stress something straight away, setting the scene for our whole chat. 'Fanny Cradock was way before my time by the way, I'm only a young lad!'. Mark is modern in every way - in the way he cooks, the way he uses ingredients, and in the way he interacts with people who love his food. 'The Foodies Festival is a great chance for me to meet my customers, and potential new ones! Generally chefs are kept hidden away downstairs with the windows locked, so it's a great opportunity for me to show what I'm about'. Despite the modernity, does Mark have more in common with Fanny Cradock and food demonstrations of the past than even he realises? 'I don't look good in a ballgown though' he insists.


Fanny Cradock loved to interact with her adoring audience, but really at a distance. It was all more aspirational than inspirational. She'd encourage people to write to her mainly so that she could write back and correct them for doing something 'wrong'. That's the reason the dish failed, not the perfectly correct recipe. These days, it's all much more immediate with twitter and blogging - both embraced by Mark as an essential way to build an online 'word of mouth'. 'We encourage it, I think differently from other chefs, we are proud of what we do and if bloggers want to help spread that message and recommend the restaurants, that's great for us'. However Mark is also quick to point out errors in blogs if he spots them, 'I'll direct message people and say, great blog about Bistro Moderne, really positive review, thanks, but you didn't have Beetroot purée it was actually artichoke'. I reckon Fanny would never be off Twitter.


Showing off to an audience was something Fanny simply couldn't resist, and the bigger the better. Famously in Edinburgh at the Usher Hall she begged the management to let in an additional 500 eager spectators to stand at the back, demand was so high to see her in action. Mark's favourite kind of venue is one full of people too - 'if there's an audience there, I'll do it! I like venues with loads of standing room round the sides, cram them in! Like Fanny, I'm a bit cheeky and I like a bit fun!'. That's where the similarities end though - Mark leaves showing off for his restaurants. At demonstrations the aim is to inspire those watching to go home and give it a go for themselves, adding in some tricks and secrets he's taught on the day. Oh, and then tweet him a picture of the finished dish. Just make sure you describe it correctly!


So what innovations will Mark be inspiring us with at Foodies in Edinburgh this year? 'It's impossible to say, it'll be something seasonal for sure, always seasonal, something to showcase Scotlands sensational produce and something simplified from my restaurants. It'll be something which is me, something different from all the other chefs who are there. Demand for seasonal produce is helping to drive up the quality of food in Scotland, and initiatives like #EatDrinkDiscoverScotland help, I'm proud to be part of that'. Mark is hoping to see hordes of people scribbling notes while he demos, and always likes to hang about after the show for a chat - as long as it's about food! 'Don't ask me about cars or pictures, I know nothing about those things, but food, my restaurants and produce are all fair game'. Mark will be cooking one dish and taking time to do it well. 'Cooking in itself is not hard, it's putting it all together that's the hard part, making it all taste great and working together as a dish'. 


There's no room for assistants on the day either, they'll be busy keeping the restaurants going. 'I don't shout at my team like Fanny did, if I need to shout at them then I'm obviously employing the wrong chefs, they clearly can't cook. For me the essential qualifications are excellent tastebuds and faultless knife skills, everything else I can teach them'. I'm keen to learn more - so I'll be down the front at Foodies with my notebook, well actually my iPad more than likely, tapping away and tweeting about the day. Oh, and thinking up some really tough questions to quiz Mark with afterwards. What would you ask? Will you be joining me? Ballgowns are optional.

I'm delighted to be part of the Official Foodies Festival Blogging Team! 

Ticket Information

2014 Foodies Festivals tickets are now available from www.foodiesfestival.com or by calling 0844 995 1111.

Tickets:
1-day adult ticket for Friday £10.00
1-day adult ticket Saturday or Sunday £12.00 (£10.00 concession)
3-day adult ticket £18.00 (£15.00 concession)
1-day VIP ticket £38.00 (Friday VIP ticket £35)
Opening times: 10am until 6pm.

VIP tickets include a glass of Bubbly on arrival, access to the VIP tent throughout the day, a goody bag and priority entry to theatre and masterclass sessions as well as a private bar with refreshments throughout the day and great views of the entertainment stage.

All children aged 12 and under go free to all Foodies Festivals when accompanied by an adult.