Thursday 28 May 2015

No Beating Around the Bush

Fanny wants to have a quiet word about something extremely sensitive, it's come to that point in our relationship. We've been skirting around the topic for a couple of years, but something has been simmering under the surface, and it's not on the stovetop. We just can't ignore it any longer, no matter how hard we try. We mustn't fight the urge. It's not even something that's popped up, until now. Being thoroughly British it's not normally something we dare to blab about in public, but Fanny insists our relationship will be stronger if we just get it all out in the open. We need to talk about s.e.x. There I've said it, almost.

Fanny Cradock Fish

She means 'of fish' you see. I think. As you know it's not something that appeals to me, and I really don't want to be chatting to Fanny about 'intimate bits' but the whole of part 20 is dedicated to it. It's filthy. She starts off by telling us off as we wash 'them' too much, and cleanse away all the flavour and the blood. Keep them as nature intended for as long as possible. On the surface she may seem to be passing on every tidbit of knowledge she possesses about creatures from the sea, but on another level it's all a mask for well placed euphemisms for something way deeper than the ocean. She starts off insisting that we must 'stand firm for cocks'.

Fanny Cradock Fish

Cock Crabs. Apparently those who are experienced in these matters demand them, even if they sometimes choose hens. Only if they are lobsters. The problem I find with hidden messages is that you can sometimes get very confused. And flustered. It's like the Birds and Bees. Fanny maintains it's all very logical though. Hens you see like to throw their legs in the air, exposing their 'inner flesh' while their juices ooze everywhere, leaving 'everything' soft and soggy. It turns out she means in the cooking pot. Back to lobsters, she asks that you get the fishmonger to throw them around a bit on their marble surface so you can 'see their behinds'. As with the human race, Fanny says, the broad bottomed ones are female and the narrow male. Naughty fishmongers will try to keep the big bottomed girls for themselves, and palm you off with the slim cocks for the same price. So, inspect their bottoms, then you'll be able to take advantage of their cherished pink eggs. I'm getting all hot.

Fanny Cradock Fish

It's not all smut though, Fanny reminisces about taking Johnnie to Paris in the springtime, which seems much more innocent and wholesome. Until, that is, they hook up with another couple to enjoy some 'scallops'. It's a life I know nothing about. Just when it was all getting seemingly romantic, Fanny moves on to dark rooms. Yes. Seemingly they are essential when selecting fish. Fanny says most folks will give their fish a quick sniff to see if they are fresh. Fanny worries that we may from time to time have a cold though, so this test just won't do. The fish need to be lined up in the 'dark room' and if they are off they will become phosphorescent and you can see them 'glow with their own nastiness'. Sounds much more handy than relying on your nose alone, eh? Take Fanny's advice, run along and 'shut yourself up' in a dark cupboard with some dubious creatures and you will soon see.

Fanny Cradock Fish

It's all quite an education for a shy little vegetarian like me, trying desperately to unpack all the hidden meanings in Fannys chat. It's so meaningful for her. On the surface, it may seem to be just an opportunity to show off every fish shaped plate she owns, wonderfully photographed by Michael in the narrow wing of the 'little 17th Century cottage' she modestly calls home. Delve deeper and there are life lessons on every page, and shocking goings on in every nook and cranny of the bosom of that dwelling it seems. My head is spinning with all the additional clues to life, and euphemisms of wisdom. I think I'll just stay clear of all things fishy, stick to the vegetables and avoid talking about s.e.x. with Fanny ever again. If that's okay. Actually, where is that dark room, I need a lie down. On my own...

Fanny Cradock Fish

Monday 25 May 2015

An Apple A Day The Escoffier Way

Everything Fanny prepared had a foundation in the world of Escoffier, for her he was the pinnacle for professionalism that we should all aspire for. Fanny was all about aspiration. Fanny was not aspiring you'll understand, she was already there, but she longed to inspire us, the everyday, ordinary cooks, to share her aspiration. It was also a complicated ambition, as we were meant to admire Fanny at the same time, otherwise we'd just aim straight for the Escoffier books instead of hers and Fannys sales would plummet. So she added some eagerness to it all, switched thing up a little, added a little colour here and there, and in her mind at least, she made it easier for the ordinary housewife to desire to access the grand levels that Escoffier inhabited.

Fanny Cradock Poached Apples

Fannys aim in passing on these Poached Apples or Pommes Pochées à l'Escoffier was simply to transform the humble fruit into a dreamy dessert which would have been at home on those higher rungs of the culinary ladder. Fanny poached her apples in ever-so-English Cider, matching the crispness of the rouged up russets perfectly. I've got a yearning for something just a little different though, so I'm switching the cider for the oh-so-Scottish and oh-so-lovely Outaspace Apple Ale from Glasgow based Drygate Brewery that jumped into my trolley at the supermarket. I hope my aspirations aren't above my station.

Fanny Cradock Poached Apples

Fanny starts by peeling the apples very carefully, very professionally. I try to do it all in one round, and I mostly manage, with only a slight tear. When I was young I am sure everyone peeled their apples before they ate them, but I was the odd one who then ate the peel. It may explain a lot. The peeled pommes are popped into a shallow-ish pan that is deep enough for them to be covered while the poaching liquor is prepared.

Fanny Cradock Poached Apples

The poaching liquid is a heady mix of the booze, water and some fruit jelly, but I'm switching it all up again. I know, no stopping me! Fanny uses her beloved Red Currant Jelly to give the finished apples a jolt of colour, but I am using (again) my Bramble and Gin Jelly. It has a glorious colour, and taste. The jelly is mixed first with the water to dissolve it, then the ale (or cider if you like sticking to the rules) before being poured over the waiting apples. Fanny pops them over a 'thread' of a heat and leaves them until they are semi-transparent and bright pink underneath. It takes about half an hour.

Fanny Cradock Poached Apples

They are then ready to be turned over for the topside to be tinted. I found they bobbed around a little but eventually found their way. Okay I had to wrestle them for a while with crossed fingers, not easy. Do not be tempted to turn the heat up to speed up the poaching. Fanny warns if the liquid bubbles hard the apples will collapse and the whole thing will be ruined. Be patient and you will be rewarded. Fanny says when they are 'not ruined but cooked' to lift them out, drain and place them on your chosen dish. Then, and only then, boil the liquor hard to reduce, as you would for any top level sauce, just as the great Escoffier himself did. The resulting sauce, with no added thickeners, is then poured over the Pommes Pochées and, well, scoffed like Escoffier would. Garnish with a leaf first though, above all presentation and garnish. Apples, beer, jelly and gin - these are aspirations I can easily strive for!

Fanny Cradock Poached Apples

Friday 22 May 2015

Swanning Around The Library

If you pick up any Fanny Cradock book, you'll soon find something to be made in the shape of a swan. The partwork is crammed with all kinds of variations, whether it be swans made from choux paste or decorated eggs with pipe cleaner heads. She loved them, almost as if she had a special affinity with the richly regal birds with their plumped up plumage. Fanny and Johnnie claimed to be friends of royalty and as such were forever accepting invites to fabulous social gatherings. You do wonder where they found the time. This week I was cordially invited to attend a right royal grand opening of a new Edinburgh Afternoon Tea venue myself, and on discovering it was the Colonnades at the Signet Library, I just had to make the time!

Fanny Cradock Chocolate Swans

Fanny would've swanned in all glitz and glamour with extremely full ballgown, probably a few feathers here and there, very blingy jewels and possibly a tiara. For my night out, all the glamour was reserved for the venue. Stunning. The Library has had a swanky make-over to host the most elegant tea salon of days gone by. Fanny would be right at home. I had the impression that everyone would be made to feel extra special and welcomed in. I certainly was. The evening had the best possible start - we were asked to taste a section of bespoke Edinburgh Gin and to vote for our favourite, which would become the signature sip of the Signet. Tough job, but someone had to do it. I won't spoil the surprise. Before I could hoover up all the remaining glasses, we were shown to our cosy table nestled amongst the bookcases with glasses of fizz thrust into our eager hands. What a nightmare. This evening was going to drag on and on... thankfully!

Fanny Cradock Chocolate Swans

Very soon an astounding selection of savoury and sweet delights were delivered to our table by the phenomenal Laura. She made us feel oh-so-special the whole night. Too young to remember Fanny Cradock, I think she just thought I was a rude writer but she never let her smile slip. I just wanted to sing 'Tell Laura I Love Her' all night. We did. Our mirrored tables glistened with miniature works of art, peppered with endless pots of Wee Tea Company tea. Everything was absolutely breathtaking, the vegetarian selection was particularly perfect. I certainly did not feel I was missing anything from the 'normal' version at it's side. I was especially jubilant to discover they also had a gluten free menu, a grand excuse to return 'rapidement' with my Mum! (Or maybe just by myself)...

Fanny Cradock Chocolate Swans

What would Fanny have made of it? The setting was spectacularly grand, but amazingly comfortable, fit for royalty, celebrity and common folk alike. The food was unbelievable, with huge attention to flavours and detail. The chefs came bouncing over to speak to us at the table, they were almost as excited to have made everything as we were to eat it. What a treat. The drinks were simply divine. Above all the service was impeccable. If there was any stress, and I doubt it, they kept it hidden, their little legs flapping away unseen under water as they sailed through the library with style and grace. All in all it was a magical night, and I've no doubt it wasn't at all for show for us, this will be de rigeur at the Signet.

Fanny Cradock Chocolate Swans

Just one thing missing though, no swans. Fanny would've maximised the Signet theme by installing a swan ice sculpture or two, a choux bun swan on the savoury plates and a chocolate swan on the sweet. She even recommends serving her swans on mirrors. It was as if she knew. She provides a template for the chocolate swans in the partwork if the chefs are interested. Just a suggestion. Fanny recommends cutting them out of scraps of plastic curtain from the bathroom, which just doesn't fit the glamour feel, so I used a disposable piping bag. Smear the templates with softened chocolate, I'm using some from Charlotte Flowers which is superb, cool, peel and they are ready to assemble as a Swan with a little coloured buttercream for feathers. My attempt may look a little like Nessie instead, but I'm sure the talented bunch at the Colonnades would succeed. They just need to up their game a little, think à la Fanny instead of à la carte. And swans, we want more swans.

Fanny Cradock Chocolate Swans

I was invited along to experience the new Afternoon Tea at the Colonnades, which opens on June 4th 2015, by the charming folk at Pagoda PR and was not required to write any kind of review or promotion nor to make swans out of chocolate. All my own doing.

Monday 18 May 2015

A Little Piece

Fanny certainly loved a party. Any excuse to invite a few select people she never really liked that much from the bad old days to gasp in wonder at the heaving buffet table she'd flung together seemingly effortlessly. And no better opportunity to show off her extensive knowledge of all things European than a soirée for Eurovision surely? Having been a contestant herself (albeit not singing) she would have plenty to crow about as she gave her guests a tour round her geographically inspired spread, laden with all kinds of everything. Additionally, any opportunity to showcase her Crêpes skills sending those attending into euphoria would be perfect. Perfectly creative continental canapés that is, but Fanny warns they are only for ambitious cooks who are prepared to spend a little more time.

Fanny Cradock Eurovision Canapés

Fanny makes very small canapé size crêpes in a normal size pan by simply placing dessertspoonfuls of ordinary pancake mixture onto the hot surface and running them into neat circles with the back of a spoon. I have a mini-frying pan that does the trick nicely, no need for spooning from me.  I love the little things. Fanny suggests that for special occasions such as this that we make very fine pancakes. This involves making the batter as usual, I'm using my lovely Wrights flour again, but then straining it through some nylon stockings before use. Erm, I think my Eurovision party guests can do without this additional one step further, don't you? 

Fanny Cradock Eurovision Canapés

As it is a very special Eurovision Party, four very special canapés are required. The crowning glory, rising like a phoenix from the display, takes the longest to assemble, so is tackled first. It's a sweet, steamed pudding made from crêpes smeared with jelly and filled with custard. Perfect to represent France - Fanny names them 'Pouding des Crêpes en Vapeur'. Eh, Parlez vous Français, Fanny? I have some homemade Bramble and Elderflower Edinburgh Gin Jelly left which should work well, even if Fanny claims to not know what a bramble is. Better the devil you know I say, we are amongst professionals now.

Fanny Cradock Eurovision Canapés

Individual moulds are greased and lined with the jammy crêpes, filled with extra thick custard and topped with more crêpes ready for steaming. Fanny says we will be surprised when they are steamed that they pop out of their little moulds perfectly, as she was apparently the first time she made them. To get them ready for their performance, more warmed jelly should be poured over. The steamed custard thickens and allows the moulded crêpes to hold their shape. As a canapé they are a big bite-size but a great 'congratulations' at the end of the buffet, but to get there we need savouries first! Time for making our minds up on fillings.

Fanny Cradock Eurovision Canapés

Flying the flag for the United Kingdom, and to keep things seasonal, Asparagus is perfect. Simply grilled and rolled in a mini-crêpe, secured with a cocktail stick. Think Eurovision and like me you probably think ABBA, so to represent Sweden I have some Quorn Meatballs. Fanny suggests rolling the mini-crêpes into cones for these, secured with a cocktail stick. ABBA would be so proud. Finally, representing Italy is a 'Tricolore' of mozzarella, tomato and basil, folded over into crescent shapes and lightly grilled before being secured with a cocktail stick. You get the idea. Fanny has one final reminder for any successful Eurovision canapé party - the essential provision of napkins. Please do not forget. Fanny prefers proper table napkins, but doesn't mind if others have to use those 'rather nasty paper ones'. Make your selection carefully however, your guests will be looking for any excuse to knock a few points off before they say 'Ne partez pas sans moi' to each other. You don't want nul points when the jury calls. Beg steal or borrow the correct linen and boom bang a bang, before the party's over you will undoubtedly be scoring douze points. 

Fanny Cradock Eurovision Canapés

To celebrate all things Eurovision, I am entering these party canapés into this months Treat Petite, hosted by Mr Cakeyboi and The Baking Explorer, check out the other Euro-tastic entries!


Monday 11 May 2015

Blowing Hot and Cold

Sometimes, not often but certainly sometimes, even I think Fanny has gone bonkers. I wouldn't say so to her face of course, and I'm only saying it now from a safe distance. People around her back in the day must've thought it too, but I bet they wouldn't have dared to say anything. She made you feel that she was right all the time, crazy as it seemed and so far in this wonderful journey through her mind and kitchen I have just gone with it. She has been wonderful and wonderfully strange in equal measure. I've certainly been full of wonder, and tried my best to celebrate that, recreate it and pass it on. However, I'm really not sure about this latest recipe suggestion. Has Fanny lost it? I mean it's totally bonkers is it not to deep-fry ice cream?

Fanny Cradock Deep Fried Ice Cream Pancakes

I know that being Scottish most people think we will merrily deep fry almost anything. We munch on deep-fried Mars bars regularly, right? Nope. Don't get me wrong, I love a little bit of deep fried goodness from time to time, but only when it adds something. Only when it makes sense. Only when it's appropriate and frankly only when it's worth the effort. Just reading the recipe for deep-fried ice cream parcels, or Petits Paquets en Surprise, I can't say I'm convinced. Fanny has won me round before though, perhaps I am just feeling uncharacteristically negative and in need of a wallop with the back of Fannys spatula.

Fanny Cradock Deep Fried Ice Cream Pancakes

Everything is frozen with this recipe. Fannys beloved pancakes have been nestling in the deep freeze wrapped and stacked just as they were in the fridge. They only need to come to room temperature before being used. Proper Chefs always do this. Fanny cannot imagine them attempting to make 'Crêpe Suzette' or indeed 'Crêpe This That or the Other' (which perhaps features in a future part) during the limited hours of restaurant service if they hadn't. Imagine if they'd put deep-fried ice cream pancake parcels on their menu and had to begin an order by freshly making some pancakes? Bonkers. Preparation is key.

Fanny Cradock Deep Fried Ice Cream Pancakes

Fanny uses a block of ice cream, which must be cut into portions and then returned to the deep freeze until 'rock hard'. I was pleasantly surprised to see that supermarkets still sold these nostalgic bricks from my childhood, and in Neapolitan too! Clearly I'm not on Fannys wavelength here though, I just wanted to slice it up and eat it, perhaps with a wafer or two. Maybe some Ice Magic if I was feeling fancy, but Fanny had other ideas. She wraps the rock hard wedge in a pancake, folding it up like a parcel before dredging it through beaten egg and rolling it carefully in ground almonds.

Fanny Cradock Deep Fried Ice Cream Pancakes

Fanny at this point drops it straight into smoking hot oil, but I could feel my package was a little bit squidgy, so I popped it back into the freezer to firm up. Limp packages will never do. While I wait for it to harden I canelle some oranges, which Fanny recommends as the garnish, making pretty flowers. There is no escape though, with my oil bubbling and my package rock hard I fire it in until it becomes golden brown. Fanny presents it just as it is, with the orange canelles and suggests that I do too. She does not cut one open. I do and unsurprisingly molten ice cream runs free. I'm left with a slightly empty creamy package that is partly crunchy and partly sludgy. I think they might've been successful with another filling, just not ice cream. Ice cream doesn't need to be deep-fried, does it? It's bonkers!

Fanny Cradock Deep Fried Ice Cream Pancakes

Fanny Cradock Deep Fried Ice Cream Pancakes

Friday 8 May 2015

A Pile of Crêpes

Johnnie should be worried. More worried than usual. He often looked somewhat concerned anyway, but somehow remained unflappable in Fanny's presence. Perhaps not today. There is something different in the air, a change of mood, a change of intention. Poor Johnnie. He's probably quietly taken himself off and is hoping to remain hidden downstairs in the dank and dark wine cellar. Maybe Fanny won't notice he is absent, or maybe she has devious plans... She's not in a rage, she's not cross and there is no suggestion she will be walloping anyone. Not today. Quite the opposite. She's felling, well, a little fruity to be honest.

Fanny Cradock Fruit Crêpes

Fruit Pancakes that is. And she is not in the mood for hanging around, this potent feeling may not last. She has her crêpes already prepared, layered, wrapped in ordinary kitchen foil and stacked in the refrigerator, so she's good to go. It's as if she has been planning this flush of lustiness. I made mine earlier too, following Fannys instructions but using her recipe which contained white wine. It's all part of Fannys seduction plan, fling in some booze wherever possible. The wine actually makes the crêpes very thin and flow around the pan with ease, making crêpes that look like tracing paper.

Fanny Cradock Fruit Crêpes

The first of Fannys fruity flairs are Crėpes Caramelisées aux Pommes, or Caramel Apple Pancakes. Fanny quickly peels and cores a cooking apple before slicing it into thin rings. These are laid over a single pre-prepared crêpe, sprinkled with sugar and popped under a hot grill until they bubble and brown. Fanny warns not to have it too close to the heat, much as there is hurry for seduction, as they will caramelise before the apple cooks, so she asks that you please remember! Fanny hasn't even noticed that Johnnie is missing, she's engrossed in her next temptation - oomphing up the fruitiness with a Tiered Orange creation, or Gâteau des Crêpes aux Oranges.

Fanny Cradock Fruit Crêpes

These are fairly similar to the Pommes, but are made with layers of pre-prepared crêpes sandwiched with home-made orange custard. Fanny frisks up egg yolks with flour and sugar until they are pale and foamy. Meanwhile she heats a mixture of orange juice and orange curaçao gently on the stove top. There is always room for more alcohol, poor Johnnie doesn't stand a chance. Just before the alco-juice boils, she pours it over the sweetly eggy mixture, stirs until its blended and pops it over a double boiler to thicken up, stirring constantly of course. It should coat the back of a spoon. The custard is spread between the crêpes and then topped with thick orange slices, sugar and grilled until brown. Now, where is Johnnie?

Fanny Cradock Fruit Crêpes

Fanny clearly is not convinced that these two alone are enough to woo Johnnie, so includes a third option. Stuffed Pancakes, or Crêpes Farcies. Soft fruits this time, radiant red raspberries and beaming, burnished blueberries made into a quick jam. With internal temperatures soaring, there's no time for it to set, so Fanny has a little trick. The fruits are heated in a pan, then a mix of white wine (I know!) and a little potato flour is added. It thickens in seconds! Fanny then rolls up some fruit with jam in her crêpes, and tops with more of the glazed, lusty preserve. Johnnie will surely not be able to resist. The whiff of the fruit and sugar would surely be enough to tempt him back upstairs, but I have no doubt that the waft of alcohol will certainly bait him back into Fanny's arms, unable to resist. Run, Johnnie, Run!

Fanny Cradock Fruit Crêpes

Monday 4 May 2015

A Whole New World

Fanny has an admission. It's not something which comes easily to her, but she is prepared to concede that she is not always right. Mostly, but not always. We've learnt at Fanny's side that pancakes must always be thin, they must always be delicate, they must always be made with Olive Oil and they must always be French. Of course, they must always be Fannys' recipe. Unless of course they are puffy, unless they are thick, unless they contain no Olive Oil and unless they come from the 'new world' as Fanny describes The United States. Fanny of course continues to refer to them in French as Crêpes Américaines, but also simply as Puffed Pancakes from the New World. I'm sure our friends in the U.S. would be so pumped.

Fanny Cradock American Pancakes

For these puffy pleasures Fanny takes a whole new world approach and embraces a whole new technique. The ingredients are roughly the same though, eggs, single cream and flour. I was lucky to be sent a sample of Wrights Self Raising Flour this week, so it was put straight to good use here! Fanny adds egg yolks to her flour, and then mixes it all up to a thick batter with the cream. I wonder if I should've beaten the yolks into the cream first as it's hard to get the flecks of orange evenly distributed. Fanny doesn't say, she just gets to work.

Fanny Cradock American Pancakes

Fanny whips up her egg whites ready to be added 'at the moment of making'. My trustee assistant Poor Sarah the KitchenAid has been languishing in the repair centre all week, but she made her way home just in time to set to whisking and a-whizzing for me. It's been so hard without her ready to leap into action at a moments click of the fingers. No wonder Fanny had a small army of endlessly hard working assistants scurrying away in her kitchen. It's been hard work this week all on my own!

Fanny Cradock American Pancakes

Fanny suggests three ways to serve the finished puffy pancakes - all piled sky high, and all her own interpretation of what 'American' would be - first blasted with cinnamon and icing sugar, secondly inflated with chocolate chips in the batter, served with swollen raisins and maple syrup. Her third option is savoury - she makes a perfectly ordinary tomato sauce and smothers them in it and tops with bacon. That's not for me clearly. I'm not sure if Fanny ever went to America herself, but I love heading Stateside whenever I can. I always come back with bloated suitcases stuffed with 'candy' - I could practically open my own tacky high street store that we all secretly love. We'd love them more if they weren't so expensive I'm guessing. So I grab for some moreishly minty M&Ms which for some reason I have left untouched since my last trip! How did that happen?

Fanny Cradock American Pancakes

Fanny adds hers into the batter and dollops them into a hot pan brushed lightly with olive oil. I knew it would make an appearance somewhere. As soon as they are 'set' she flips them over before piling up, drizzling with Maple Syrup, ready to be scoffed. The green M&Ms slowly seep and colour the batter in between each batch until the end ones are very verdant indeed. The chocolate melts and oozes out of the crisp shells to create a undeniably tasty pancake. They aren't as puffy as other 'American' style ones I've made, but these were Fanny's idea of a whole new world of pancakes. Compared to the slivers of French ones they are still light but airy, squidgy, and bursting with the M&Ms. Maybe minty pancakes aren't everyones cup of tea for breakfast though. I think they are right and I kind of like it when Fanny is 'wrong'...

Fanny Cradock American Pancakes