Swanning Around The Library

If you pick up any Fanny Cradock book, you'll soon find something to be made in the shape of a swan. The partwork is crammed with all kinds of variations, whether it be swans made from choux paste or decorated eggs with pipe cleaner heads. She loved them, almost as if she had a special affinity with the richly regal birds with their plumped up plumage. Fanny and Johnnie claimed to be friends of royalty and as such were forever accepting invites to fabulous social gatherings. You do wonder where they found the time. This week I was cordially invited to attend a right royal grand opening of a new Edinburgh Afternoon Tea venue myself, and on discovering it was the Colonnades at the Signet Library, I just had to make the time!

Fanny would've swanned in all glitz and glamour with extremely full ballgown, probably a few feathers here and there, very blingy jewels and possibly a tiara. For my night out, all the glamour was reserved for the venue. Stunning. The Library has had a swanky make-over to host the most elegant tea salon of days gone by. Fanny would be right at home. I had the impression that everyone would be made to feel extra special and welcomed in. I certainly was. The evening had the best possible start - we were asked to taste a section of bespoke Edinburgh Gin and to vote for our favourite, which would become the signature sip of the Signet. Tough job, but someone had to do it. I won't spoil the surprise. Before I could hoover up all the remaining glasses, we were shown to our cosy table nestled amongst the bookcases with glasses of fizz thrust into our eager hands. What a nightmare. This evening was going to drag on and on... thankfully!

Very soon an astounding selection of savoury and sweet delights were delivered to our table by the phenomenal Laura. She made us feel oh-so-special the whole night. Too young to remember Fanny Cradock, I think she just thought I was a rude writer but she never let her smile slip. I just wanted to sing 'Tell Laura I Love Her' all night. We did. Our mirrored tables glistened with miniature works of art, peppered with endless pots of Wee Tea Company tea. Everything was absolutely breathtaking, the vegetarian selection was particularly perfect. I certainly did not feel I was missing anything from the 'normal' version at it's side. I was especially jubilant to discover they also had a gluten free menu, a grand excuse to return 'rapidement' with my Mum! (Or maybe just by myself)...

What would Fanny have made of it? The setting was spectacularly grand, but amazingly comfortable, fit for royalty, celebrity and common folk alike. The food was unbelievable, with huge attention to flavours and detail. The chefs came bouncing over to speak to us at the table, they were almost as excited to have made everything as we were to eat it. What a treat. The drinks were simply divine. Above all the service was impeccable. If there was any stress, and I doubt it, they kept it hidden, their little legs flapping away unseen under water as they sailed through the library with style and grace. All in all it was a magical night, and I've no doubt it wasn't at all for show for us, this will be de rigeur at the Signet.

Just one thing missing though, no swans. Fanny would've maximised the Signet theme by installing a swan ice sculpture or two, a choux bun swan on the savoury plates and a chocolate swan on the sweet. She even recommends serving her swans on mirrors. It was as if she knew. She provides a template for the chocolate swans in the partwork if the chefs are interested. Just a suggestion. Fanny recommends cutting them out of scraps of plastic curtain from the bathroom, which just doesn't fit the glamour feel, so I used a disposable piping bag. Smear the templates with softened chocolate, I'm using some from Charlotte Flowers which is superb, cool, peel and they are ready to assemble as a Swan with a little coloured buttercream for feathers. My attempt may look a little like Nessie instead, but I'm sure the talented bunch at the Colonnades would succeed. They just need to up their game a little, think à la Fanny instead of à la carte. And swans, we want more swans.

I was invited along to experience the new Afternoon Tea at the Colonnades, which opens on June 4th 2015, by the charming folk at Pagoda PR and was not required to write any kind of review or promotion nor to make swans out of chocolate. All my own doing.

A Little Piece

Fanny certainly loved a party. Any excuse to invite a few select people she never really liked that much from the bad old days to gasp in wonder at the heaving buffet table she'd flung together seemingly effortlessly. And no better opportunity to show off her extensive knowledge of all things European than a soirée for Eurovision surely? Having been a contestant herself (albeit not singing) she would have plenty to crow about as she gave her guests a tour round her geographically inspired spread, laden with all kinds of everything. Additionally, any opportunity to showcase her Crêpes skills sending those attending into euphoria would be perfect. Perfectly creative continental canapés that is, but Fanny warns they are only for ambitious cooks who are prepared to spend a little more time.

Fanny makes very small canapé size crêpes in a normal size pan by simply placing dessertspoonfuls of ordinary pancake mixture onto the hot surface and running them into neat circles with the back of a spoon. I have a mini-frying pan that does the trick nicely, no need for spooning from me.  I love the little things. Fanny suggests that for special occasions such as this that we make very fine pancakes. This involves making the batter as usual, I'm using my lovely Wrights flour again, but then straining it through some nylon stockings before use. Erm, I think my Eurovision party guests can do without this additional one step further, don't you? 

As it is a very special Eurovision Party, four very special canapés are required. The crowning glory, rising like a phoenix from the display, takes the longest to assemble, so is tackled first. It's a sweet, steamed pudding made from crêpes smeared with jelly and filled with custard. Perfect to represent France - Fanny names them 'Pouding des Crêpes en Vapeur'. Eh, Parlez vous Français, Fanny? I have some homemade Bramble and Elderflower Edinburgh Gin Jelly left which should work well, even if Fanny claims to not know what a bramble is. Better the devil you know I say, we are amongst professionals now.

Individual moulds are greased and lined with the jammy crêpes, filled with extra thick custard and topped with more crêpes ready for steaming. Fanny says we will be surprised when they are steamed that they pop out of their little moulds perfectly, as she was apparently the first time she made them. To get them ready for their performance, more warmed jelly should be poured over. The steamed custard thickens and allows the moulded crêpes to hold their shape. As a canapé they are a big bite-size but a great 'congratulations' at the end of the buffet, but to get there we need savouries first! Time for making our minds up on fillings.

Flying the flag for the United Kingdom, and to keep things seasonal, Asparagus is perfect. Simply grilled and rolled in a mini-crêpe, secured with a cocktail stick. Think Eurovision and like me you probably think ABBA, so to represent Sweden I have some Quorn Meatballs. Fanny suggests rolling the mini-crêpes into cones for these, secured with a cocktail stick. ABBA would be so proud. Finally, representing Italy is a 'Tricolore' of mozzarella, tomato and basil, folded over into crescent shapes and lightly grilled before being secured with a cocktail stick. You get the idea. Fanny has one final reminder for any successful Eurovision canapé party - the essential provision of napkins. Please do not forget. Fanny prefers proper table napkins, but doesn't mind if others have to use those 'rather nasty paper ones'. Make your selection carefully however, your guests will be looking for any excuse to knock a few points off before they say 'Ne partez pas sans moi' to each other. You don't want nul points when the jury calls. Beg steal or borrow the correct linen and boom bang a bang, before the party's over you will undoubtedly be scoring douze points. 

To celebrate all things Eurovision, I am entering these party canapés into this months Treat Petite, hosted by Mr Cakeyboi and The Baking Explorer, check out the other Euro-tastic entries!

It's Chrissssssssstmas! Are you fond of festive fondant?

Christmas is so important to Fanny that she dedicates several parts to whipping up endless treats and essentials for the annual celebration. So, for the next few months it's all Noël round here as I prepare along with Fanny. Previously I'd be one of those people who refused to think about the 'C' word at least until after Bonfire Night, and more likely well into December, but Fanny must be infiltrating my mind and soul. I am cheerily skipping through the fake snow of the Christmas department of John Lewis, watching back-to-back Christmas shows on Food Network UK and stocking up with winter-y ingredients as if my flat is to be hazardously cut off from civilisation at any moment. Fanny aims to get me prepared, but I am slightly concerned I may peak too soon...

For Fanny, the most festive of treats is cake. Not only was she determined that everyone should be able to afford a piece of cake at least once a year, but that at Christmas they should be decorated in a sufficiently celebratory fashion. Viewers and readers must've bombarded Fanny with 'cross letters' saying that her Royal Icing cracked their teeth, for here she recommends the softer Fondant as her covering of choice. However, Fanny says, please do not be alarmed into thinking that this is in any way a 'classic' fondant which must be worked up with a spatula on a marble surface. No, Fannys version is much less complicated. And everyone should make their own fondant, shouldn't they Mary Berry? The horror of shop bought was not in Fannys mind.

Fannys version involves adding an egg white and some gently warmed liquid glucose to sifted icing sugar. Fanny warns NOT to beat the egg white at all. Fanny has another warning to ONLY buy your liquid glucose for the chemist. Please update this advice to read 'any good supermarket' unless you want some very funny looks next time you pick up your prescriptions. This fondant is so easy, she sets poor Johnnie to it - simply working it up to a stiff paste and kneading it on a dusted surface. Any flavourings and colours may be added, I choose just to add some pastel shades. Well almost pastel shades.

Fanny uses her fondant to cover cakes, to stamp out pretty little designs to add to cakes and to cover her very favourite Minature Bûches de Noël, or Mini Swiss Roll Christmas Logs. Fanny clearly trusts us now to return to the very beginning and prepare her 'no-crack' Swiss Roll, the only difference is to make it thinner than usual. So I divide the standard mixture between two pans. Once cooked for only a few minutes, the panels are trimmed and cut into eight pieces of equal size. The trimming is essential to ensure that the roll up perfectly without those shameful cracks. 

Fanny fills her Mini Bûches with jam, jelly or buttercream. I went brambling at the weekend with my Mum for the first time in years, and made a very nostalgic batch of Bramble Jelly. I can clearly remember the smell and taste of my Grans jelly several decades after last having the joy of it, so this was my attempt to recreate it. I added some Elderflower Gin from Edinburgh Gin to the batch and it tasted perfectly hedgerow-retro-tastic. Perhaps my Gran used to add Gin to hers too? Either way it makes a perfect filling for these little festive fancies. Once spread and rolled up the fondant needs to be rolled out and cut to size to cover them. Fannys final warning is to roll out the fondant on a cold surface sprinkled with CORNFLOUR this time, which will not affect the fondant if the cakes are stored. It's like insurance she says, to avoid nasty little humps appearing like dogs under the bedclothes. Please take heed, and do not write any nasty letters to say it has if you haven't. Fanny has lots of Christmas knowledge to share, and doesn't have time to read them.