Monday 23 November 2015

Kugelhopf We Go Again

Fanny strives to set some definitions straight before we go any further, although it's not at all clear why she has waited until this moment to do so. You might be forgiven for thinking it is terms she uses to describe her treatment of the poor old assistants, but no, it is useful terminology for 'yeast work'. So when she talks about scaling, pinning out, proving, knocking back, slapping, kneading and glazing - no enthusiastic helpers have been harmed. Well, we cannot guarantee this 100% of course, but in terms of defining 'yeast work' we can feel slightly reassured.

Fanny Cradock Kugelhopf

Mostly the terminology is self explanatory - but that does not deter Fanny from providing clarification. Scale is a 'technical term', Fanny says, for weighing out portions of dough into 'given uniform quantities'. Just in case you wondered. Fanny gets a bit more feisty though with Knock Back... this means to slap down with palms of slightly floured hands on lightly floured surfaces until 'it' (remember she is chatting 'dough' not 'assistant') subsides to about one quarter. You can then Slap and Knead alternately, or as Fanny describes - slip, slap, slip, slap with the palm of one hand and then the other across a minimum 'length' of 12 inches for around a minute. I think we are still chatting dough, but even I'm not sure now.

Fanny Cradock Kugelhopf

Fanny puts our newly defined knowledge to good use to make a German, or maybe Austrian, or perhaps Swiss, speciality. In English it doesn't sound so appealing - Yeast Cake - but saying it in German, Austrian or Swiss-ish is so much fun. The Kugelhopf. I imagine the pronunciation is Rose Nylund style. Since Fannys day they have been rebranded as Bundts, but only if you use a tin from a certain producer, which I don't have, so I'll stick with the K-word instead. I'm not sure many of the B-folks make yeasted cakes in theirs though?

Fanny Cradock Kugelhopf

Fanny whips up the usual yeast and flour mixture in a warm bowl, adding sugar, salt, vanilla powder (I have a grinder, get me), flaked almonds, lemon zest and raisins. Oh raisins. I don't have any. I do however have glacé cherries, of course I do. So in they go, along with some dried sour cherry powder for extra oomph. Then Fanny adds eggs gradually, and some gently warmed milk to bring it together to a dough. Fanny then leaves it to prove (for which she gives two definitions - one for domestic and one for professional use - which do I choose? Thankfully professionals, we discover, use a proving oven - has she been watching Bake Off? - so that's not an option for me...) for 2 hours to double 'in bulk'. This is a technical term.

Fanny Cradock Kugelhopf

Once bulky, all that remains is for it to be shaped - or rather Pinned Out to use the correct term for 'rolling'. Not to mean as you might expect 'against the kitchen cupboards' as in treatment of assistants. Into the Kugelhopf pan, covered and left to prove for one more hour before baking. It. Smells. Amazing. However Fanny has one last technical term to ram home before you rush to get the icing sugar and garnish ready... Hands Off. Fanny insists that you do NOT cut into it until the following day... It's more tortuous than her treatment of any assistant, but worth the wait. The Kuglehopf is a bready cakey joy wherever it hails from, whatever the definition of the pan it's baked in, and however you eat it. Slathered with butter for me. With extra green cherries.

Fanny Cradock Kugelhopf

4 comments:

  1. I was a tad scared when I read 'yeast' after seeing another blogger used 'her' yeast in a bread recipe. Thankfully this Fanny's recipe seems quite delicious!

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    1. Oh yes I read about that yeasty blogger! Eeeek, I'll stick with a Kugelhopf I reckon...

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  2. Mu only regret from France is that I didn't buy a traditional ceramic kugelhopf mould. Love the way this looks with all the cherries!

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    1. I wish I had a lovely old one too... I will find one, one day!

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