Fanny Italia #4 - Wine for today, hopefully

Fanny Cradock may have felt that Italian food ran the 'gamut of A to B' but surely when it comes to wine, which was always Johnnies domain, more can be said. I'm hopeful that my very first trip to Italy, staying in Turin and touring round the Piedmont region, will be a boozy affair. With some trepidation I open the volumes that Fanny and Johnnie have written together on wine in search of a flicker of good news to keep me bouyant ahead of departure. It seems promising - their original wine book from 1954 includes and additional letter of the alphabet - all the way to C... And maybe by the time Johnnie wrote his 'Wine for Today' in 1975 things will have moved on considerably?

In 1954 the aim was to inform the who knew little or nothing who had a desire to know more. Their purpose was to encourage, stimulate and maybe assist newcomers to gastronomy to consider wine, taste wine and study wine for themselves. That's exactly what I want to do in Italy. Perhaps they can help me after all? Fanny and Johnnie steer me through food choices (none are Italian), how to cook with wine (Vermouth is perfectly happy in the kitchen), ordering wine in restaurants (most wine waiters are ignoramuses, so you must guide them), drinking wine at home (apparently no excuses are necessary), hosting a wine tasting party (choose four for a modest affair) as well as a summary of wines by region. Well, French at any rate. If we must consider Italian wines, start by considering Asti Spumanti, a frivolous drink. Fanny says only one word is required. Don't.

The Bon Viveurs do admit that Italy does have at least one good wine. A red. Barolo. It has a certain amount of bouquet which is lacking in nearly all the others. The faint praise continues, with a faintly positive description of it having a faint resemblance to Burgundy. Perhaps the wine sessions and visits to vineyards that I have booked up will provide a faint whiff of pleasure while I am there?

There is a glimmer of hope. In the 1970s, Johnnie, presumably free from the shackles of Fanny's French obsession, does say that the quality of Italian wine has greatly improved. Finalmente! Italy, being one of the oldest, and biggest, wine producers in the world, finally gained the support of their government to establish the Denominazione di Origine Controllata, or D.O.C. based of course on the French system, which has helped immensely. Johnnies advice is to always buy D.O.C approved wines. Good news. The good news continues as he says that Italy does not often export it's best wines, only those of medium quality.

Johnnie is especially drawn to Piedmont, where he describes Barolo as the 'king of wines' or the 'wine of kings'. Either will do nicely for me. Protected by law, it is aged for at least three years in oak barrels, turning orange red in colour and still remaining dry. Johnnie says Barbaresco is similar but matures faster. He recommends I also watch out for Sizzano, Lessona, Gattinara, Fara, Ghemme, Boca and Mottalciata, all of which need time to mature. I am hopeful they will have matured sufficiently by the time I arrive. And then there is Carema, Barbera d'Asti (which is very good drinking), a dry red called Freisa, Dolcetto, Grignolino, Cortese and Erbaluce di Caluso. There is even a sparkling red which carries the scent of roses called Brachetto. I'll be simply spoiled for choice. And that's before the Vermouth is opened. There will be no need to reach for the Asti Spumante.

Fanny Italia #2 - Do Italians Do It Better?

In 1964 Fanny and Johnnie published a volume which would safely guide readers all over Europe, but safely outside the Iron Curtain. Their aim was to be extensive but not comprehensive. How could they be after all? All they could do was to impart their considerable knowledge and hope that their readers, who were sending in around ten thousand fan letters a week, would be inspired to try somewhere new. Fanny clearly asks 'Why always go to the Algarve?' as her starting point. I wonder how many of those tens of thousands of 1960s readers were even venturing abroad? How many used the guide to explore beyond the Algarve, perhaps, like myself, into Italy?

Fanny's previous writing almost put me off my upcoming trip to Italy altogether. This book lets me plan my own route, and thankfully that includes flying. Fanny still has words of warning however, for the wary tourist. She claims that 'souvenir hunting' from tourists seems to be a national sport, so it is unwise to leave any items unguarded. And if the Italians aren't stealing all that you own, they are apparently trying to steal your hard earned money. According to Fanny, the tourist is regarded as 'fair game' so it is wise to determine the price of anything you plan to buy, hire or enjoy. Another thing to worry about. Or perhaps not, as Fanny notes it is entirely different in the North, where I will be spending my time. Apparently there is a 'gay friendliness' there which means locals have a tremendous interest in the well-being of tourists, in direct contrast to the 'tourist-piracy' which persists in the 'deep south'. Well, thank goodness for that. Things are looking up.

And then Fanny gets to the food. I've never been to Italy, and am looking forward to tasting all that the nation has to offer, but Fanny has a warning for me. It's limited. Far more limited than the cuisine of her beloved France. She says its 'runs the whole gamut from A to B.' Despite the limitations, there is at least variety, but mostly the food revolves around oil and pasta. Seemingly the Italians also add goat and all manner of feathered objects, all lumped together under the name uccelletti. In my pursuit to avoid thrush, lark, blackbird, bullfinch, quail, woodcock, turtle-dove and the strangely named figpecker (although I like the sound of that one), I shall scour every menu making sure uccelletti and their numerous feathery frames do not feature.

I'm heading to Piedmont, where Fanny says I can look forward to good grazing, flourishing orchards, vineyards and rice fields. So, rather more than the limitations of A to B? Although she points out that dishes will be highly seasoned, I can expect a high incidence of garlic, cream, cream cheese and butter. Doesn't sound too bad, does it? With White Truffles on risottos, polenta, agnelotti, gnocchi, beans, golden peaches, cheese and chestnuts surely I will eat well? I'll skip the wild boar and partridge. Oh and the frogs. But otherwise all sounding good. There is even mention of cakes and chocolate.

You'd imagine that Fanny might be a fan of Italian wine at least? She does concede that they can be very interesting and pleasant, but sadly there will be no 'great ones' for me to sample. The Italians do not lavish the same care and attention on their production as the French you see. The best I will find is Vermouth in Turin, which is perfect for me, and exactly where I will be. Elsewhere in Piedmont, the best I will find is Barolo, or it's less potent and fresher cousin Barbaresco. Perfect. I'm not sure what Fanny is complaining about to be honest. She tells me I can expect to find Asti Spumante, which bears no relation to Champagne. It seems that there is simply nothing which Italy can offer which would make Fanny sparkle. Will I discover something to pop my cork? Will the Italians do it better than Fanny describes? Should I have planned a holiday in the Algarve instead? Let's see...