Wine Without Fears

Fanny tends to leave the wine choices to Johnnie, he's the vino expert. Well, they are both experts of course, but Fanny concedes that Johnnie is more expert than her. Well, what she actually says is that he's more 'decorated' that her with wine qualifications. She is by contrast more 'decorated' with culinary awards, so it balances out, right? So, Fanny always defers to Johnnie for wine choices, handing him the meal plan when entertaining and letting him work his magic. Besides, he needs to have a leading role - they work so closely together in every other aspect of life and always divide their tasks. When travelling, Johnnie does the planning. When filming, he's the cameraman. Fanny is always the centrepiece, naturellement.

Fanny and Johnnie have written about wine almost as much as they have about food. In the beginnings of their Bon Viveur days the wines they drank were of as much interest as the meals they ate and the places the visited. They published a book in 1954, 'An ABC of Wine Drinking' to share their knowledge. Subtitled 'Wine Without Fears', their aim was not to inform the informed, but for those who knew nothing but desired to know more, protecting readers from exploitation, and protecting wines from misuse. Quite. Some of the illustrations suggest otherwise though. I'd say by the time the 1970's came along most readers were still novices where wine was concerned, or was that just my house? Blue Nun? Black Tower? Lambrusco? Not a mention by these two. They do however start with a word about the Italian Asti Spumanti. Don't.

In 1975, when Fanny was busy writing again herself, Johnnie updated their wine bible with a much expanded edition, Wine for Today. Fanny wrote the foreword, and indeed admits that she had little to do with the original book, it was all Johnnies own work she proudly tells us. For Fanny, wine is one of the only 'pleasures of the table' which a man (or woman) may indulge in three times a day every day of their lives. I've got a lot of catching up to do. Three times a day! No mention of units, or calories, or taking it easy, the Cradock way is to go for it full tilt. Fanny says that wine 'irons out the creases in our daily lives' and I have to say I agree. I love ironing.

In the partworks, different wines are considered each week, neatly matched to the foods Fanny is preparing and urging us to prepare. Johnnie has been handed the plan, and has the best selection to hand. Best not to get too excited about Italian wines though as Johnnie is quick to point out that they hang on to the best stuff, rarely exporting their best reds. How inconvenient. Johnnie says best not to 'ask too much' of any Italian Red really, but does have a few recommendations for the brave.

If you do travel regularly to Italy, like the Cradocks themselves, you'll already know to resist the local delicacy of Barolo served with Quinine, I can only imagine, but instead to look up a Sparkly Red called Lombardo which does not travel well. Even with cheese. Chianti is a safe Italian choice, although Johnnie feels it's a rough, claret-like quaff in comparison to other continents. And there is so much Government interference. French is best. If you do buy it, purchase only from a reputable seller and remember basic Chianti comes in whicker bottles, while Reserva is best.

Barolo should be the top Italian choice, with its floral bouquet lacking in nearly all the others, unless you can source the super Sicilian Corvo Rossi. So, it sounds like Fanny has done the right thing leaving the wine advice to Johnnie - his choices still stack up today among the over-crowded supermarket shelves. We all love wine now, although we may not be 'decorated' with qualifications on it, and don't all indulge in it three times a day. I'm working on it, plenty of 'ironing' to do. Can the Cradocks take the credit? Fanny certainly would, but Johnnie is slightly more modest. He reckons that you should take or leave his thoughts... After all, what he likes, or does not like, is of 'no importance' when what 'pleases you is the right choice, for you.' So, if you enjoy it, drink it, even if you are wrong. Maybe they are not so different old Johnnie and Fanny?

Glögg, Glögg, Glögg

I should've had more faith in Fanny, she does have some favourite alcoholic cocktails to share for Christmas after all. Poor old Johnnie isn't a fan however. Despite teaching Fanny 'all she knows' about wine, he defines a cocktail as 'a number of good ingredients ruined by being mixed together.' Fanny is keen to surprise him though, and reaches into the depths of history to uncover some long forgotten, erm, classics, as well as some new wonders borrowed from around the world. Fanny must've picked up that I'm feeling a little under the weather this week, as most of the festive favourite are hot, hot, hot! I've been supping on some Galloway Chilli Jam Hot Toddies to try and scare the bugs off, but I'm willing to try some of Fannys specialities too. It might help. It's kind of research.

Before I get to the hot cocktails though, Fanny suggests a cold one. Made with milk. Stored for a few weeks before drinking. I dare say if I wasn't feeling too hot already, this would surely finish me off, but it's worth a go isn't it? For the Cold Milk Punch (which Fanny also calls Old Milk Punch, I can't work out if it's a typo or not) I need to soak lemon peel in rum for 24 hours, before adding brandy, the lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg and sugar. After a quick stir to dissolve the sugar, Fanny gets me adding boiled milk. She does warn that the mixture will curdle, and it does. I'm glad I did this in advance whilst feeling brighter. Adding some boiling water doesn't help. Fanny recommends leaving it for 24 hours covered with a cloth before straining and bottling and leaving it somewhere safe for a few weeks. I wish I'd forgotten where I'd stored it in all honesty, not even the rum, brandy and spices couldn't save me from 'old milk'.

In need of something warm and soothing I'm pleased not see that Fanny recommends a Churchwarden. Much more like it. It's a mix of lemon, cloves, red wine and tea. Perfect for this time of year and a real tonic after weeks-old milk. Fanny stabs cloves into a lemon and pops it into a cool oven until the lemon turns light brown. The smell is amazing, certainly clearing my poor sinuses. While the lemon is baking, heat the wine and get ready some scalding hot tea. Fanny says ideally should be green and from Mr Laity's shop in St Ives, Cornwall. This seems very specific to me (does it even still exist?), and quite a trip, so I reach for a TeaPigs instead. The roasted lemon is immersed in the hot wine, and hot tea poured on top with a little sugar. Yahoo for the Churchwarden, it's lovely. I expect it'd be even lovelier if I had the  right tea. Sorry Fanny. Sorry St Ives.

My cold isn't quite lifting yet, so I'd better bash on with more 'remedies'... Fanny has a richly sweet one for me next, it's called a Negus. Unusually Fanny doesn't give any explanation why, it just is. It's a classic. It's made with Port, although Fanny does say you can substitute Red Wine if wishing to be more economical. This is no time for economy though, what could be more import at than my health? The port is heated, but not boiled, and added to a jug with sugar, lemon rind, lemon juice and grated nutmeg. Again, it's a treat for my nasal passages. Fanny says I should stand the jug near a fire, I don't think she had my radiators in mind, and pour on some boiling water. The mixture then needs to be stirred for 30 minutes while keeping it warm before serving up. It really is lovely, but without the benefit of a roaring hearth I had to reheat it before swigging it back.

Finally for today, Fanny wants to introduce a traditional recipe she has 'borrowed' from Sweden, which she says is traditionally made with Sherry but she finds a red wine works equally well. Its Glögg but Fanny says it's sort of pronounced Glurg. It's also got brandy, so can't be wrong can it? The brandy is warmed gently with sugar, cloves, cinnamon sticks, almonds and raisins until it's too hot to touch comfortably. The only way to test this is to keep sticking your finger in until it hurts. Ouch. Then I wonder if Fanny is losing it. She sets light to it. This is a fire hazard, and I already have Casualty on speed dial after the finger-scalding test. Once the flames die down, phew, it's added to the gently warming red wine, stirred and served. It's stunning, a real winner for me. The almonds and raisins add so much. I do wonder if essentially burning off the brandy alcohol was necessary though. I reckon several of these will shift my lungs no problem. Oh hang on, Fanny suggests bottling left-overs to be reheated for next time. Left-overs?