Showing posts with label Esther Rantzen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Esther Rantzen. Show all posts

Monday, 12 October 2015

Dont boak, it's only Gwen Troake!

Fanny Cradock never cooked with Gwen Troake, not surprising after judging her nauseating banquet menu so harshly, claiming her ideas were 'too rich' and just plainly not suitable for presentation at a professional level. For Fanny, the end of a long career on TV, for Gwen it resulted in her first, and only cookbook, endorsed by Esther Rantzen. Esther said that the nation became either pro-Troake or pro-Cradock following the showdown, but my guess is that the only winner was the book publisher, who presumably shifted a fair few copies of plainly unprofessional Gwen's Country Cookbook.

Fanny Cradock Gwen Troake Brambles

The main ingredient that made Fanny pull faces as if she was holding back a substantial slew of slurried spew was the humble Bramble. Fanny claimed on TV not to even know what one was, and continued her bile-laden disgust at Gwen for even suggesting that it would make a suitable sauce to be served with Duck at the banquet the Big Time show was built around. Game old Gwen simply chuckled at Fanny's vitriolic vomit and carried on regardless. No-one else really seemed to like her recipes, but somehow they made it into her book. This must've made Fanny retch even more.

Fanny Cradock Gwen Troake Brambles

The Bramble Sauce recipe is a peculiar one indeed. Gwen simmered Brambles in plain water for around 15 minutes before straining and pushing them through a sieve. The pulp was discarded, and the juice thickened first of all with that staple of all 70's sauces, cornflour, and then with a very un-Fanny ingredient. Shop bought lemon jelly. Fanny would heave. Gwen adds sugar to make it even sweeter, a little salt and a splash of red wine, presumably for refinement. I can see why Fanny remained on the point of gagging. Especially as an accompaniment for a savoury main course. Perhaps it was meant to be regurgitated for dessert?

Fanny Cradock Gwen Troake Brambles

In her quest to extend our rice repertoire, Fanny makes some sweet fritters and suggests serving them with 'your favourite jam sauce'. Hmmm. I bet she never thought anyone would dare to recreate Gwens creation though. I'm wicked. I know. Shoot me. Fanny binds together cold, cooked rice with an egg, some ground almonds, sugar and a generous sprinkling of cinnamon. She shapes them into little rissoles and fries them very gently in olive oil (from the chemist) until they are a nice brown colour. They don't really look like a dessert, more of a chicken nugget type of a thing, or dare I say a duck-nugget should such a thing even exist?

Fanny Cradock Gwen Troake Brambles

The resulting modern day 'collaboration' between Fanny and Gwen is a slightly more convivial combination. The crunchy, slightly sweetly spicy but otherwise plain rice 'fritters' are given a new lease of life with the overly sweet, citrusy Bramble jam sauce, which is thick and gloopy. I find myself dipping the fritters into it as if it were ketchup (not that I've ever actually eaten ketchup, the thought of it truly makes me heave) in a way that would probably increase Fannys revulsion. Perhaps they should've written a cookbook together, partly for professionals and partly for the public, instead of bickering their way into the history books. Gwen's Brambles may not have appealed to Fanny, and may have never appeared again in such a form on any table - professional banquet or otherwise. Fanny's guidance may have provoked less of a joke, croaking more a masterstroke than a choke, and revoked both their futures from hurtling towards broke. That's all folks...

Fanny Cradock Gwen Troake Brambles

Thursday, 30 July 2015

Jamie Dear, You Are Among Professionals Now

Fanny Cradocks TV career more or less came crashing to a halt in 1976 when she was a mentor and judge on the Big Time, hosted by Esther Rantzen. Fanny was tasked with advising Devon housewife and amateur cook Gwen Troake with her menu for a very splendid dinner. Fanny was not impressed, at all, and didn't hide it from the cameras, chiding poor old Gwen, letting her know in no uncertain terms her menu was NOT suitable now that she was among professionals. These days TV cookery shows are plentiful, but are the judges any fairer than Fanny?


Would Fanny be at the helm of Masterchef the Professionals, if lovely Monica hadn't gotten the job? In 2014 Scotlands own Jamie Scott was victorious - but he insists when I talk to him that Monica was much more generous than Fanny! 'Monica was always at my table as soon as my dish was finished to taste what I'd made and check on my techniques.' Ah, so she didn't destroy your confidence even before you'd starting cooking? How unusal! 'Although, it was great to see Fanny at the forefront of TV cooking as a pioneer in a male dominated world, at that time' he shares with me. I'm sure Monica appreciates Fanny paving the way for her!

Fanny Cradock Jamie Scott Masterchef Foodies Festival

Jamie is appearing at this years Foodies Festival in Edinburgh for the first time - and he's excited at the thought of a big crowd! 'I watched Adam Handling in the rain last year - it was a wash-out, but Adam was great. I wore shorts and sandles which was a shame. This year I'm hoping for sunshine and I'll be dressed professionally in all the gear.' For Fanny this would be full ballgown, but Jamie isn't so sure this is really him. 'I'm working, so I'll be in my chefs whites and dressed properly for the job' he told me. But we can expect to see some skirt...

Fanny Cradock Jamie Scott Masterchef Foodies Festival

Beef skirt. I feel a little like Fanny asking 'Brambles?' to poor Gwen but Jamie assures me it's a cut of meat. He likes to showcase great Scottish produce and providers - so we might just see said skirt, Highland Wagu Beef, perhaps some scallops from Oban and probably more than a dash of Scottish vodka. Now we are talking a language I understand! Like Fanny, Jamie trawls through the old recipe books of Escoffier for inspiration. He has a passion for bringing forgotten recipes and ingedients, like Gentlemens Relish and Mushroom Ketchup, into todays cooking. 'If it worked so many years ago why wouldn't it work nowadays? We have better equipment now - not big stone ovens - so things cook better and taste fresher. I like the classics, but reinvented and made more accessible.' Like me with Fanny!

Fanny Cradock Jamie Scott Masterchef Foodies Festival

Jamie has loads planned after Foodies - including more festivals, pop-up restaurants, some guest chef-ing in Arbroath, Dundee, Glasgow, Edinburgh, London and Norfolk, as well as cheese and gin trails around Scotland. Cheese and Gin? I'm there! Fanny would be so proud, I am sure she would take well to Jamie, sharing his passion for classic food. There will be NO yukky faces pulled at Foodies as we all watch in anticipation to see the wonders that Jamie will unveil for his winning menu. I'll be checking round the large crowd for skirtage, so don't be alarmed if you see me.

Fanny Cradock Jamie Scott Masterchef Foodies Festival

I am delighted to be an Official Foodies Festival Blogger. See you at the Festival!













Tickets:
Tickets are on sale now at www.foodiesfestival.com or by calling 0844 995 1111

Friday adult day ticket £10.00 (£8.00 concession)
Saturday or Sunday adult day ticket £13.00 (£11.00 concession)
3-day adult ticket £20.00 (£16.00 concession)

Friday VIP ticket £35.00
Saturday or Sunday VIP ticket £38.00
VIP tickets include a welcome glass of bubbly, access to the VIP tent with private bar and refreshments throughout the day, priority entry to food and drink masterclasses, a goody bag and a showguide.
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Open times:
Friday 7th August: 11am – 7pm
Saturday 8th August: 10am – 8pm
Sunday 9th August: 10am – 7pm